The fresh commencement of a sandwich shop in London
In the bustling city of London, the humble sandwich has undergone a significant revival, transforming from a simple lunch option into a culinary phenomenon. This resurgence can be seen in the plethora of new sandwich shops popping up across the city, each offering a unique twist on this classic dish.
One of the latest additions to the scene is Cafe Mondo, which opened its brick-and-mortar site in Camberwell at the end of 2024. Founded by Jack Macrae and Viggo Blegvad in 2016, Cafe Mondo boasts a retro ambience with surfaces in Rubik's cube colours, cobalt and white chequered packaging, vintage ephemera, and a layout inspired by New York luncheonettes. The most ordered sandwich at Cafe Mondo is the fish finger sandwich, a testament to the timelessness and nostalgic pull of sandwiches.
Another notable entrant is Rogue Sarnies, started by Freddie Sheen, a former employee at Michelin-starred Galvin La Chapelle. Sheen, along with other brands like Sandwich Sandwich from Bristol and The Dusty Knuckle and Max's Sandwich Shop, is part of a new generation of sandwich shops that are expanding due to London's continued affinity for sandwiches. Sheen believes that the challenging economic climate has boosted sandwich shops, offering decadent options at a lower price point compared to restaurants.
The sandwich shop has seen a revival in the mid to late 2010s, and this trend continues with the arrival of Crunch, a cult sandwich brand, set to open its first permanent site in London following the popularity of its Spitalfields stall. Another newcomer is It's Bagels, a New York-style bagel shop, which has opened in Primrose Hill and Soho, bringing the essence of a traditional Big Apple diner to London.
De Santis, located in the crypt of Mercato Metropolitano in Mayfair, draws inspiration from the original Corsa Magenta location in Milan and has a grown-up, bar-like sultriness to it. The 'Reggio' sandwich, filled with salty-sweet PDO parma, earthy porcini, and creamy fontina, is a popular choice at De Santis. The brand is now looking for a second location that reflects the historic charm of De Santis but accommodates more Londoners.
The pre-packaged sandwich was pioneered by Marks & Spencer in 1980 and popularized with Pret's 1986 launch and Boots' seminal 'meal deal' at the turn of the millennium. Even a 125-year-old London sandwich shop, Paul Rothe & Son, is still in operation in Marylebone, a testament to the enduring appeal of sandwiches.
London sandwich shops, such as those on The Strand, were popular among theatre-goers in the mid-19th century. Sandy's, a London sandwich shop opened in 1925, was a source of lunch for workers and creatives. The new generation of sandwich shops is also recognising the importance of a strong visual identity, with an identifiable visual language uniting their physical and digital presence key to attracting and growing a devoted fan base.
For Jack Macrae, co-founder of Mondo Sando, the sandwich's resurgence can be attributed to lockdown, as people sought special meal experiences without spending a lot. This sentiment is echoed by Freddie Sheen, co-founder of Rogue Sarnies, who believes that the challenging economic climate has boosted sandwich shops.
As the sandwich scene in London continues to evolve, one thing remains certain: the sandwich's universal appeal and rich history make it a dish that will continue to captivate Londoners for years to come.
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