Stance on display at the Oval: Strong demonstration by Kyiv - Sunanda K. Datta-Ray's Reflections
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In the world of politics, attire and attitude often take centre stage, causing consternation in high places. This is especially true when public figures make fashion choices that are interpreted differently based on race, gender, or political context.
Recent examples include the controversy surrounding Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy's choice of a military-style black sweatshirt adorned with Ukraine's trident. This fashion choice, while symbolising his commitment to his nation, caused consternation in some high places, particularly when compared to the formal attire typically expected of a head of state.
Similarly, the fashion choices of Michelle Obama, Nancy Mace, and Sarah Huckabee Sanders have sparked intense scrutiny and criticism. Michelle Obama's sleeveless dresses at official events were met with intense scrutiny and criticism, while similar fashion choices by white first ladies such as Nancy Reagan and Eleanor Roosevelt were met with little controversy. The different responses reveal underlying racial and political biases, where the fashion of public figures is framed in ways that reinforce stereotypes and distract from their substantive contributions.
Politicians like Nancy Mace and Sarah Huckabee Sanders have faced backlash for outfits deemed inappropriate or clashing with expected decorum in certain political settings. Mace has been criticized for casual or attention-grabbing outfits at official events, reflecting a perception that she doesn’t “read the room,” while Sanders has encountered issues for dresses or casual attire that seem mismatched to the occasion.
Another dimension of attire controversies is the enforcement of dress codes targeting specific garments. Policies meant to regulate political attire at institutions sometimes disproportionately affect cultural expressions, fueling debates about identity, politics, and the limits of acceptable attire.
Looking back in history, attire and attitude have also caused consternation in high political places. For instance, the Gaekwad's casual stroll towards the throne and perfunctory bow were seen as mutinous, while Muhammad Ali Jinnah's wife draped herself in Liberty scarves, despite fears she might catch a cold.
In India, Jatindra Mohan Sengupta, a Bengali revolutionary, used sartorial semaphore in his political career, while Vijayalakshmi Pandit, a political figure, wore khadi sarees, which were reputedly smooth as French silk. Narendra Modi is transforming the political stage into a Hindu durbar, where those who are not dwijas are mlechhas, through flamboyant turbans and waistcoats.
Even world leaders like China's Mao Zedong are not immune to the power of attire. China's Mao jacket still lurks in some august Beijing wardrobes, and is sometimes worn by immaculate Xi Jinping for politically pregnant occasions.
In the current situation, Ukraine is fending for itself while the US plays footsy with Russia. Amidst this, the American vice-president, James David Vance, has criticised President Zelenskyy for not dressing up in honour of President Donald Trump. Mr Vance's wife is a Hindu Brahmin from the Telugu heartland of Andhra Pradesh.
Mr Zelenskyy could have told Mr Vance that his military-style attire was not mandatory for all freedom-fighters. Mr Vance, who derided the President eight years ago, does not seem to care about Ukraine's fate, as shown in his statements during his run for the Ohio Senate in 2022.
In conclusion, attire in political contexts often becomes a flashpoint reflecting deeper social dynamics—race, gender, cultural identity, and political power—where clothing and demeanor are heavily scrutinized and can provoke significant consternation in high places. Notably, differences in treatment often reveal broader inequalities in how political figures are judged by their appearance.
[1] Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/02/us/politics/michelle-obama-faces-a-dilemma-over-dress-code.html [2] Source: https://www.washingtonpost.com/politics/2022/05/25/sarah-huckabee-sanders-white-house-fashion/ [3] Source: https://www.newsweek.com/sarah-huckabee-sanders-fashion-controversy-dresses-1674878 [5] Source: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2021/jan/20/keffiyeh-ban-university-of-illinois-chicago-professor-discrimination-lawsuit
