In a fresh turn of events for her Calvin Klein debut, Veronica Leoni stripped down to the basics

Calvin Klein's New Direction: Veronica Leoni's 24/7 Wardrobe

Veronica Leoni, the new creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, has unveiled a collection that aims to redefine femininity and masculinity while paying homage to the brand's minimalist roots. The show, staged in New York at 205 West 39th Street, marked a significant step in Calvin Klein's evolution.

Leoni's collection features crisp and rigorous black tailoring, bonded business overcoats, shrunken wool sweaters, and baggy jeans. A square-toed pump and slipper, reminiscent of a 1999 Calvin Klein collection, was also a notable inclusion. Voluminous draped jersey dresses added a touch of elegance to the collection.

Calvin Klein himself expressed satisfaction with the show, stating he found a new coat to buy. The renowned American fashion designer, who retired from the label in 2004, may not have been physically present, but his spirit was certainly felt. His ex-wife, the photographer Kelly Rector, was also in attendance, along with historical muses of Calvin Klein, Kate Moss and Christy Turlington.

Leoni's designs are intended to trickle down to the brand's more widely available commercial collections, including underwear and perfume. The collection's elements are said to resonate with the consumer, suggesting a successful blend of modernity and tradition.

Leoni, who has previous experience working at The Row, Celine, Jil Sander, Moncler, and has her own label Quira, refers to the collection as a '24/7 wardrobe'. This collection is designed to return to the essence of Klein's vision, emphasizing minimalism and sensuality.

Whether the collection has the necessary frisson of difference to retain attention over an upcoming month of shows is uncertain. However, bolder expressions of Leoni's vision may be necessary to truly stand out. Her label Quira was nominated for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2023, a testament to her creative potential.

Leoni feels proud that Calvin Klein feels at home again with the new collection. This sense of continuity and respect for the brand's legacy is evident in every piece of the collection. As Leoni continues to shape Calvin Klein Collection, we can look forward to a future that honours the brand's past while pushing the boundaries of fashion.

In a fresh turn of events for her Calvin Klein debut, Veronica Leoni stripped down to the basics