Exploring Kerala's traditional practices and scenic forest treks, an insider's take
In the vibrant heart of India's southern state, Kerala, lies a treasure trove of cultural delights waiting to be explored. From the enchanting performances of Ottamthullal and Theyyam to the indigenous wisdom showcased in the Pokkali paddy fields, Kerala's culture and traditions take centre stage in various aspects, including architecture and farming practices.
Ottamthullal, a satirical performance art form created in the 18th century by poet Kunchan Nambiar, is a captivating blend of wit, politics, and beautiful costumes. This unique art form can be experienced at the Kerala Kalamandalam art university in Thrissur, or at the Kathakali Centre in Kochi.
Speaking of Kochi, the city is a living testament to traditional architecture, with the tharavadus, wooden ancestral homes, adding a touch of elegance. Interestingly, these homes can be dismantled and reassembled like puzzles, as demonstrated by CGH Earth, a hotelier, who has relocated century-old tharavadus to serve as guest villas at Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom.
Just 30km to the north of Kochi, lies Ezhikkara, home to the Pokkali paddy fields. These fields are a living example of Kerala's unique agricultural practices, growing saline-tolerant rice in the monsoon and transforming into shrimp farms in summer. Gopinath Parayil, founder of The Blue Yonder, recommends a visit to these fields to witness Kerala's indigenous farming wisdom firsthand.
For those seeking a more immersive cultural experience, tour companies like Cochin Magic offer guided tours to the Pokkali paddy fields. If you're lucky, you might catch a glimpse of Theyyam performances, a trance-like ritual theatre that is a significant part of Kerala's cultural calendar. Theyyam performances are especially raw and electrifying in temples and old homesteads around Bekal and Kasaragod, in northern Kerala, between October and May.
Performers in Theyyam become gods for a night, with towering headgear and fire dances. To experience this spectacle, look for performances by masters such as Kalamandalam Mohanakrishnan at Kerala Kalamandalam, or at the Kathakali Centre in Kochi.
Koodiyattam, one of the oldest forms of theatre in the world, originating over 1,000 years ago in Kerala, is another cultural gem. This traditional art form, recognised by UNESCO, features striking headdresses, painted faces, and detailed attire. Catch a performance at Kochi's Cochin Cultural Centre or at the Kerala Kalamandalam art university, located 115km north of Kochi.
Whether you're a culture enthusiast or simply a traveller seeking unique experiences, Kerala offers a rich tapestry of traditions waiting to be explored. Hotels in the area around Bekal and Kasaragod should be able to provide a calendar of local Theyyam performances, ensuring your journey through Kerala's cultural landscape is a memorable one.
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