Exclusive glimpse into an elite Tokyo dining establishment, characterized by hidden location, confidential scheduling, and disregard for Michelin recognition.
In the world of fine dining, exclusivity is not a foreign concept. One such restaurant that embodies this is Sugalabo, located in Tokyo, Japan.
Established in 2015, Sugalabo is the brainchild of Chef Yosuke Suga, a culinary maestro with a background deeply rooted in French cuisine. Suga's journey began with his grandfather, a head chef on passenger ships crossing the Pacific between Kobe and California, and his father, who opened a restaurant in Nagoya dedicated to French cuisine. Suga further honed his skills under the tutelage of the world's most Michelin-starred chef, Joel Robuchon.
Sugalabo's table policy is a watered-down version of "Ichigensan okotowari," a practice of some secretive Japanese restaurants. Diners must be invited or recommended by existing patrons to eat at Sugalabo, and there is no online booking system or set opening times. This exclusiveness is not unique; institutions like Rao's in New York and Le Beaujolais Club in London also have restrictive door policies.
Sugalabo incorporates staples of French haute cuisine, but Suga focuses on using local Japanese products and using French influences as a complement. The menu is an omakase (chef's choice) menu that allows Suga to showcase the best produce Japan has to offer. The cost of dining at Sugalabo is approximately $500, with wine pairings and service fee costing extra.
One of Sugalabo's signature dishes is the cured ham with curry rice, made with grains grown in its own rice field. The restaurant's menu is hyper-seasonal, and Suga works within 'micro-seasons' to use a variety of seasonal ingredients. Sugalabo also wants to understand diners' preferences and backgrounds to tailor their experience.
Every month, Sugalabo's staff travels around Japan to meet and network with suppliers. In 2020, Suga opened Sugalabo V in Osaka, the first restaurant inside a Luis Vuitton store. Sugalabo also operates Le Café V at Luis Vuitton branches in Osaka and Tokyo, which serves dishes similar to those at the original restaurant.
Interestingly, Suga turned his back on Michelin stars and critics when starting Sugalabo, focusing instead on creating a unique dining experience for his patrons. The names of the persons who gave the recommendation for an order at Sugalabo are not provided, maintaining the restaurant's air of mystery.
Despite the restaurant's growing guestlist, Sugalabo remains exclusive, upholding its commitment to welcoming guests with whom they are familiar. For those fortunate enough to secure a reservation, a dining experience at Sugalabo promises an unforgettable journey into the world of Japanese haute cuisine.
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