Eliza Dumais' exploration of bitter sweet hate

In the world of wine, sweet wines are no longer confined to the realm of dessert accompaniments. A growing number of wine professionals are advocating for the versatility of sweet wines, suggesting them for various occasions, from after-dinner indulgences to pairings with main dishes.

Renowned sommelier Ramon Manglano, head of the wine list at trendy uptown Manhattan French restaurant Chez Fifi, is one such advocate. He recommends a sweet wine, specifically a 1997 Doisy-Daene, as a surprising pairing for a chicken dish topped with seared foie gras. The high acidity of sweet wines like Doisy-Daene makes them balanced and sumptuous, creating a harmonious marriage with rich, flavourful dishes.

This shift in perception is also evident in the growing popularity of Madeira wine pairings with steak, a trend that has gained traction both in restaurants and online. Brands like Taylor Fladgate and Bodegas Blandy's in the United States are promoting Madeira's sweet flavour profile as a suitable match for steak.

At wine bars, servers are adopting a more subtle approach to describing sweet wines, using terms like 'ripe red fruits' instead of 'sweet'. A server at a Brooklyn wine bar, Anais, notes that guests often dislike the term 'sweet' but enjoy the taste of a sparkling rosé with a tiny bit of residual sugar.

The aversion to 'sweet' notes in wine might be more about the word than a firm distaste for residual sugar. As Eliza Dumais, a prominent voice in the wine industry, argues, "the word 'sweet' in wine tasting notes is often met with vitriol." Some people associate 'sweet' wine with negative experiences, such as bad grocery store wine or alcohol-related incidents.

However, Dumais, in her forthcoming article titled "From rosé all day, to no way rosé. Has pink wine lost its lustre?", challenges this perception, suggesting that a sweet wine renaissance is possible. She argues that everyone wants to drink something that makes them happy, and sugar, found in sweet wines, can make people happy.

Dumais's articles, which can be found on a website dedicated to providing information about wine, food & wine pairing, and trends in the wine industry, have been instrumental in shaping this conversation. Her work includes pieces like "Blind faith: Eliza Dumais on our obsession with tasting blind," "What will we be drinking in 2025: Trend watch," and "From rosé all day, to no way rosé. Has pink wine lost its lustre?"

Notable figures have also been embracing the newfound appreciation for sweet wines. Beyoncé and Jay-Z reportedly enjoyed a sweet white wine from Château d'Yquem with cream sauce and fresh truffle ravioli at a wedding.

As the wine industry continues to evolve, it seems that sweet wines are poised to play a more significant role, not just as a dessert accompaniment but also as a pairing for main dishes. The stigma surrounding sweet wines may be on its way out, paving the way for a new era in wine appreciation.